Getting It In and Gearing Up

Newsletter Volume I, Issue 4
Split and Dubrovnik, Croatia, Rome, Italy
Remote Year Week 4


Just before my fourth and final week of my Remote Year experience and time in Split, I made a list of what I wanted to do before leaving Croatia. I did not get to everything, but what I did get to was quite satisfying. Guess that means that I will have to return one day to finish out my list! 

Not going to Italy made it easy for me to join a couple of fellow remotes on a trip to Dubrovnik, a UNESCO world heritage site and majestic hamlet south of Split that is separated from much of Croatia by a three mile stretch of Bosnian coast. I rode a ferry, which takes about 4 hours. The bus ride is slightly shorter, however it cuts through Bosnia and well, we know how a stop through immigration there can disrupt a lady's travel flow!

Dubrovnik is known as the Pearl of the Adriatic, and for good reason. I was enchanted by the first aerial glimpse I had of its 7th century Old Town when I stood on the balcony of my Airbnb. In the photo, you can see the wall that surrounds the city. It runs a length of 6,360 feet and drops about 80 feet, right into the Adriatic on some sides. I had stomach knots as I climbed the worn, centuries-old stone steps, but walking the wall itself, as well as the peeks into the hidden corners of the Old Town were worth the effort. I imagined medieval soldiers in armor traversing these same walls as they protected the city!

During the Balkan War in the 1990s, Dubrovnik was hit hard. It underwent a massive restoration effort. If you look closely at the red roof tiles, you will see that the reds vary between light and dark. The darker reds typically represent restored tiles. 

Croatia is white. Like really, really white at 99.3%, and I can assure you that the .7% isn't all black folks. Day after day, as I walked to the co-working space, shopped, or wandered, I anticipated a racially-motivated something. Conditioning in the US racial climate has me cautious and primed for a clapback, and I even learned a Croatian retort, just in case. Nothing happened--at least to my face. I even got a good share of compliments. My skin color did prompt curious stares from seniors, which I expected, but that was about it. I chalked the stares up to my stunning beauty and kept it moving! However, two days before my month ended, my bubble was burst. I was walking past the outdoor seating area of a pub. The patio was empty, save two men who looked like they were two sheets to the wind. I heard and saw them chatting energetically, which slowed as I approached. I did not understand all of what was said, but I did catch the word "monkey" as I walked past. Jerks! I would not and did not allow that singular incident to define or sour my perception of Croatia, a country that I truly enjoyed during my stay. I believe in karma, and those guys will get their due. Pomalo. 

We closed out Remote Year with a celebratory gathering that included reflective presentations and a sunset cruise. When I signed up for this program, I was not sure what to expect. With a healthy diet of reality TV--going all the way back to MTV's first season of The Real World--I had some apprehension. What could possibly happen when you bring together nearly 30 people, aged 24-64 from different countries and perspectives for a one-month immersive experience? In the case of my program, you got a bit of magic and a bunch of memories. Our group was inclusive, energetic, curious, social and fun. Although I am probably not a candidate for Remote Year's 4 or 12 month programs since I prefer long travel on my terms, I would definitely do another 1 month program. 

Did you think that I was done with Italy? Although the group trip was cancelled and my friends had to go back to the US, I did a jaunt to Italy for a long weekend after Remote Year ended. Among other things, I got to see the underground of the Colosseum-- at night! During my at least four trips to Italy, I had never visited the Colosseum. AND, to my delight, they opened the underground of the Colosseum for tours for the first time ever. I could not resist the opportunity, so I went. In hindsight, I admit that squeezing in the jaunt to Rome was a bit too much movement and I should have chilled, but I had a great time! 

So, I did Croatia and was able to squeeze in a jaunt to Italy. What's next, you ask? Czechia, also known as the Czech Republic. Prague is a bucket list city for me and I am SOOOO excited!

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Salt of the Earth and Gratitude